The 2025 Priority Gemini bicycle
Priority Bicycles's Gemini is a gravel bike with a unique (in the US, in 2025) drivetrain. It has a belt instead of a chain and a Pinion 12-speed gearbox with electronic shifting on drop bars. There are aluminum and titanium versions; I opted for titanium at the same MSRP as the aluminum one during a sale.
I bought this bike at the end of 2025 for low-maintenance and weather-oblivious riding. When it rains, I'm reluctant to ride my bikes with waxed chains because water dramatically shortens the wax's lifespan. With the tires and fenders I have on it, I can't run it through mud, but I wouldn't want to tear up our trails anyway. There won't be any excuse to not ride this bike in most conditions.
It came almost fully built in a bike box, but needed a few adjustments:
The stem was rotated 180º around the fork steerer tube.
One of the brake levers was rotated inboard by a few degrees.
The shifter battery was completely drained and would not beep or wake.
The hydraulic brakes aren't spongy, but they do take a considerable amount of movement to engage.
I haven't ridden it enough to have a strong opinion, but I like it so far.
The cable leading from the shift paddles to the transmission came loose a few months into owning it. This made me think the shifting battery had died prematurely and I had to commute home in a pretty low gear.
Fitment
Contact points
Rene Herse Bon Jon Pass (35mm) tires: I didn't like the knobby tires the Gemini came with and wanted something a bit narrower than the Rove's 45mm tires. These are the endurance version with black walls that were made as a limited edition. They suffered a puncture on the first outing: a sharp rock slipped through the protective fibers.
PDW All-Metal 700c x 45mm (old version) fenders: These have been discontinued: they used a single pair of struts for the rear fender and a rubber mud flap instead of the hard plastic ones. They max out at 35mm tires and I needed the long alloy stay to clear the front tire.
Rene Herse TPU tubes: These are a lot easier to carry as a spare and avoid the lead found in butyl tubes. They're less "renewable" than latex tubes, but don't suffer from passive leaking.
Wolf Tooth Waveform pedals in raw aluminum: Just like on my Fairlight, these pedals are made in USA and don't have sharp, threaded pins.
Redshift ShockStop stem +6º 55mm: 55mm is really short for a stem, but I wanted to emulate the Fairlight's fit. I haven't tested whether the steering is too twitchy yet.
WTB Volt Medium Steel saddle: I'll probably swap this out for a Specialized Mimic saddle eventually, but it works for now.
Tools
Silca Gravelero mini-pump: You need some way of inflating a tube that's been repaired and I don't like CO2 cartridges or mini electronic pumps. This is mounted against the seat tube and inflates faster than the Tattico.
Wolftooth B-RAD TekLite roll-top 0.6L bag: I like storing my tools underneath the down tube, but this time I went with a bag instead of a "keg." I don't need a chain tool on this bike, so the kit is even smaller, though I am tempted to stuff a replacement belt in the kit. It has the following contents:
Nitrile gloves to keep my hands clean if I need to remove a wheel (brake calipers and spokes can get pretty gross).
Pedro's tire lever is the best easy-to-find option, after bending or snapping many other brands.
TPU tube patch kit to repair most punctures. Another reason I like TPU over butyl is the repairs feel more solid and the patches aren't as messy.
Replacement tube in case a valve stem leaks or a puncture can't be repaired.
Crank Bros. multi-tool for hex wrenches, I don't think there's a phillips screw on the bike at all (derailler bikes use them for the limit screws).
Spoke wrench in case something causes the wheel to go out of true.
Tire boot in case something slashes the sidewall or there's a big hole in the tire. I've never had to use one of these.
Cockpit
King Cage Iris Titanium bottle cages: These hold on more tightly to metal Bivo bottles.
K-Edge Max Mount, Combo: This is made in USA and was one of the first out-front computer mounts. The "combo" version has a GoPro attachment point underneath. It mounts:
Wahoo Roam V211 The V2 was discontinued in 2025, so this links to a comprehensive review when the unit came out in 2022. head unit: I don't want or need a touchscreen because I don't usually need to use maps on my head unit. If I was more adventurous, I might prefer the newer options. I still think the screen is almost perfect for a head unit.
Outbound Lighting Detour front light: The beam pattern is similar to cars and dynamo headlamps, with a cut-off to illuminate the road without blinding oncoming people. It has great battery life, controls, and water resistance, too. The mount is a bit squirrely but workable.
Spurcycle Original Bell: I don't have bells on my other bikes (yet), but I want to get more in the habit of using them. This is the only viable option for drop bars still, but I'd prefer a "brrring" sound over the single "ding".
Cycliq Fly6 Pro camera and light: This is a pretty expensive item, but I want to have a record of any crashes I get into. I've tried putting a GoPro back there, but the software doesn't work well as a dashcam.
Future
I'll probably swap out the saddle for the same one I use on my other bikes, a Specialized Mimic.
I might build up a wheel with a dynamo hub, like I did for the Rove.
I want a front-facing camera on the bike, but am reluctant to try the Fly12 Sport:
The other Fly12 I have (version two, I think) produces massive EMF radiation that effectively jams my bike computer's GPS. I'm amazed they achieved FCC certification with this thing. Other folks have experienced the same effect with theirs.
I don't want their light.
Cycliq doesn't have a great track record for supporting hardware. I'm actually a bit shocked they're still in business.
A GoPro doesn't act enough like a dashcam to work well here (though it is cool that Wahoo head units can now control GoPros).
The Garmin Varia Vue might be ok but is very expensive, could benefit from 60FPS, and I don't need its light.
I might switch the rear camera to a future Garmin or Wahoo product with a decent camera and radar combined. The current Garmin Varia RCT715 doesn't use a very good camera.
The handlebars feel pretty wide for me so I might get narrower drop bars.
Other owners
These are some articles I found while researching the Gemini, mainly focused on improving the brake levers and shifting system (which so far seems fine to me):